STORY: This Tokyo brewery dates back to the days of the samurai.
It’s making sake, Japan’s traditional rice wine.
But the industry has been battling decades of declining sales at home, as locals switch to cocktails and other alternatives.
Now brewers are hoping for a boost after UNESCO officially recognized the process of making the drink as Intangible Cultural Heritage.
The move came at meeting of the UN body in Paraguay on Wednesday, and was welcomed by Japan representative Takehiro Kano:
“Being recognized internationally in this way will renew the interest of the ordinary Japanese people in this field, and that could put more momentum behind efforts to transmit these skills and know-how to the next generation.”
Back in Tokyo, Koichi Maesako is head brewer at Ishikawa Brewery.
He says the sake in this tank will be ready in a week or so.
It’s made with ancient techniques that are the basis for the UNESCO listing.
That includes the use of special culinary mold known as koji.
And the use of a unique three-step fermentation process.
Maesako says there’s precedent to hope the UNESCO move could help sales:
“Since our food was listed by UNESCO, Japanese cuisine has spread all over the world. I hope that the same thing will happen with sake. Our brewery is seeing an increase in exports, and we hope the UNESCO listing would accelerate this trend and lead to a bigger growth in overseas sales.”
But waning domestic demand isn’t the only challenge for Japan’s sake brewers.
Unseasonably warm weather has also seen a poor rice harvest, hitting the quality of the grain, and driving prices higher.
That has made it challenging to produce an affordable product.
Now the UNESCO listing – Japan’s 23rd – could prove a timely boost.
With exports already rising, sake brewers will hope their drink can follow sushi in conquering global markets.
